Catalina Island, California – I Lost My Nerve but Was Surprisingly Rewarded
Catalina Island
The tourism team for Catalina Island recommended a hike that sounded fantastic and arranged for a guide to take us there. Unfortunately, our original guide was unavailable, so they sent a local gentleman named Pastor Lopez to drive us to the hiking area.Pastor Lopez, who is in his mid-70s and dressed casually in jeans and a weathered baseball cap, shared stories of his life as he navigated around town. He mentioned serving in Vietnam and facing health challenges likely linked to Agent Orange exposure. As we made our way into the hills above Avalon—a small town with about 3,300 residents—he revealed that he grew up here and is also an avid surfer.I immediately connected with him but found myself becoming increasingly anxious about the narrow road he was driving on.Stressed Out
Avalon is nestled at the base of steep mountains with winding roads that can be quite intimidating. My fear of heights intensified as we edged close to steep drops that felt like Himalayan cliffs to someone like me.“Is it like this all the way?” I asked Pastor while trying to focus elsewhere.“Um,” he replied cautiously. “It’s actually worse up ahead.”Feeling embarrassed yet unable to ignore my anxiety any longer, I admitted defeat: “Pastor, I’m sorry. I can’t handle this road. I really can’t. We need a plan B.”Plan B
Without hesitation, he quickly devised an alternative itinerary for our morning adventure. He took us to a scenic lookout where we could safely enjoy breathtaking views from a gentle slope. Standing on solid ground with dusty chaparral beneath my feet, I gazed out at Catalina Island's beauty. To my right stood the iconic red-tiled roof of the stunning Catalina Casino against the vibrant blue Pacific backdrop; to my left lay an olive-green point of land protecting Two Harbors—a quaint community home to around 300 residents—making it one of only two towns on Catalina Island.Exploring The Haypress Reservoir
While chatting with a friend, Lopez mentioned a charming lake nearby and suggested I take a stroll down the road to see it for myself. Unaware that the island had freshwater lakes and reassured by the wide, safe road ahead of me, I thought this was a wonderful idea.
Fifteen minutes later, I found myself standing alongside my wife and Lopez at Haypress Reservoir—a picturesque body of water embraced by small hills adorned with light green brush, all under a clear blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds.
As we enjoyed our time by the shore, luck smiled upon us when a woman pulled up in her car.
Locals Make The Travel Experience
“Oh, hey, Pastor. I thought you might be out surfing, but I saw your truck and wanted to say hi.”
Lopez introduced us to local artist Robin Cassidy, who has created many of the beautiful tiles featured on Avalon’s fountains.
“She designed the ones that still look good,” Lopez joked.
Cassidy and Lopez are both lifelong residents of the island, their playful banter flowing effortlessly like lines from a well-crafted screenplay—much like those once enjoyed by Hollywood legends such as Marilyn Monroe and John Wayne during their visits to Catalina.
Cassidy shared that the original tiles she crafted for the fountains hold significant value. “When I made those back in the day, it required uranium for some of the colors,” she revealed dramatically. “For some reason, nobody wants to sell it to me anymore.”
Cassidy operates Silver Canyon Pottery on Avalon’s outskirts and offers tile-making classes open to the public. As we discussed her artwork further, she recounted how visitors often ask if she signs her tiles for the fountains.
"Why on earth would I do that?” she responded with a bemused expression—an embodiment of humility if ever there was one.
Wildlife on Catalina Island
Beneath the shade of a sturdy tree by the water's edge, Lopez and Cassidy exchanged stories about lost hikers and Catalina’s renowned bison and mule deer. The bison were introduced in the 1920s for filming a Western movie and have since multiplied; an estimated 150 still roam today—best seen through a Catalina Bison Expedition.
The mule deer were brought in for sport hunting but quickly grew in number without natural predators. Some estimates suggest there are thousands now causing concern over their impact on the island’s ecosystem. Discussions about culling them included controversial proposals such as shooting from helicopters.
This notion incensed Lopez, who later learned it had been dismissed.
“There aren’t 2,000 of them,” he argued passionately. “They don’t hurt anything! Someone once challenged my perspective on these deer asking if I had a PhD. I replied: ‘No, but I've lived here my whole life. In my book, that’s worth more than any degree.’”
Away from debates over deer numbers, Lopez and Cassidy enthusiastically shared recommendations for hiking across this stunning landscape. They both highlighted Silver Canyon as an exceptional trek—but caution newcomers: it can be quite challenging.
“It’ll kick your ass if you’re not careful,” Cassidy warned with sincerity.
Avalon on Catalina Island
As we prepared to return to town, we hopped into Lopez’s truck. I closed my eyes during the ride down the hill, relieved to be facing the hillside rather than looking out over a steep drop.
Back in Avalon, Lopez entertained us with fascinating tales about William Wrigley Jr., the chewing gum mogul who acquired nearly all shares of what was then known as the Santa Catalina Island Company. He invested millions to transform it into a tourist destination, constructing landmarks like the Hotel Atwater and a now-defunct aviary called Bird Park.
In 1921, Wrigley established Avalon as the spring training home for the Chicago Cubs, who held their workouts here for three decades. By 1929, he had built the impressive Catalina Casino, which features the world’s largest circular ballroom and was the first theater specifically designed for talking motion pictures. Hollywood’s biggest stars would take a ferry across 26 miles of ocean for glamorous evenings out.
Lopez shared that Errol Flynn often visited Avalon, as did John Wayne. Western author Zane Grey owned a house on a hill overlooking Avalon, while movie star Tom Mix resided below him. According to Lopez, Grey and Mix had a contentious relationship; in an act of defiance, Mix painted his last name in large letters on his roof as a reminder to Flynn about his neighbor.
In 1975, Wrigley’s descendants donated 42,000 acres of Catalina Island to the Catalina Island Conservancy—an organization they had founded just three years earlier.
“The Wrigleys cared deeply about this place,” Lopez remarked. “Now it seems more about money; commercial chains are moving in. It’s not like it used to be.”
Nonetheless, living in a small town like Avalon has its perks. With its near-perfect climate and stunning natural surroundings, Avalon is also characterized by its close-knit community.
“You don’t steal in Avalon,” Lopez said firmly. “You don’t lie. Everyone knows each other here; there’s a genuine sense of honesty and respect.”
While Los Angeles is just an hour away by boat—offering big city lights and action—Avalon feels like a peaceful retreat from modern life. From watching this island from my dorm window decades ago to finally arriving here took me 50 years; now I am eager to return.
How To Visit Catalina Island And What To See
Getting There: Ferries operated by Catalina Express travel between Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point (located just south of Laguna Beach). We set off from Long Beach where an upscale Fairmont hotel (Breakers) is slated to open soon.
My wife and I enjoyed Commodore Lounge Access on our ferry trip which included complimentary drinks (beer, wine or cocktails) and snacks such as cookies or chips. The seating was comfortable with fold-down trays for our refreshments. The journey lasted approximately one hour.
A notable sight in Long Beach Harbor is the Queen Mary ship that has been docked since the 1970s. Standard one-way fares from Long Beach to Avalon are $42 for adults aged 12-54; seniors aged 55 or older pay $37.75 while children's tickets cost $32.50. For those opting for Commodore Lounge access, fares are $20 higher across each category. With up to eight daily departures from Long Beach to Avalon, it's easy to plan a day trip.
Hotel Options
We stayed at the Hotel Atwater, which features lovely modern rooms and a sleek, airy lobby. Built by Wrigley in 1920, the hotel underwent a complete renovation in 2019. Our room was cozy, equipped with a comfortable queen bed and a small fridge. Upon arrival, guests are treated to two complimentary bottles of sparkling wine. Additionally, the hotel offers a $20 food and beverage credit per room per night that can be used at Bistro at the Atwater, Avalon Grille, or Descanso Beach Club. Guests also receive 15% off activities and tours through Catalina Island Company and complimentary beach towels.
While our room didn’t have a coffee maker, there was delicious free coffee available in the lobby from 5:30 to 7 a.m. The hotel is conveniently located about a ten-minute walk from the ferry terminal and just one block from the ocean. A classic queen room during midweek in August was recently listed for $374; however, booking directly offered a reduced rate of $324.65. For those looking for accommodations in Two Harbors, Banning House Lodge and Villas is another option.
Dining Options
Bluewater Grill is an inviting restaurant with a lovely patio overlooking the harbor; their cod with miso is particularly good. We also enjoyed refreshing mai tais and solid margaritas infused with serrano chilies. Avalon Grille serves up an intriguing old-fashioned drink that includes bacon—definitely worth trying—alongside their Wrigley Martini made with gin and green olives for an extra kick. The Naughty Fox offers delightful blackened shrimp served over rice accompanied by toasted coconut and mango on their pleasant patio. M Restaurant features an enormous salad filled with wild arugula, walnuts, goat cheese, and dried cranberries; don’t miss their blackened Arctic Char or spicy Penne Arrabiata with shrimp. For breakfast lovers, Bistro at the Atwater serves an excellent breakfast burrito alongside tasty avocado toast.
Shopping
Crescent Street runs along the waterfront and boasts an array of restaurants as well as t-shirt shops and galleries. Among them, Island Threadz stands out for having one of the best selections of t-shirts.
Boating
You can rent kayaks at several locations in Avalon; we chose to rent ours from Descanso Beach Club—a short walk from town—and enjoyed a peaceful paddle around the area. Visit Catalina Island operates numerous boat tours including glass-bottom boat excursions, submarine voyages, and trips to Two Harbors.
Land Tours and Zip Lines
Visit Catalina Island also offers land tours such as a bison expedition and Journey to the Sky—which we experienced briefly—as well as exciting Zip Line Eco Tours.
Catalina Casino
While there’s no gambling here, the casino houses the stunning Avalon Theatre—one of the first built specifically for talking films—featuring beautiful black walnut paneling and Art Deco furnishings dating back to 1929. Films are screened on Friday and Saturday nights in this historic venue where movie stars once gathered upstairs in its famous ballroom. Guided tours of this magnificent building are available.
Other Sights and Things To Do
Since visitors are not permitted to bring or rent cars on the island, renting a golf cart is the next best option—arguably an even better choice. We spent a couple of hours exploring Avalon, taking in stunning views from the hills and admiring the charming small homes. Expect to pay around $60 for an hour, which provides ample time to see the main attractions in town.
The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden is a lovely location set in a canyon, showcasing plants native to the island. Constructed with local stone, the memorial features a fountain adorned with sparkling blue Catalina tiles.
The Catalina Museum For Art and History offers insight into the island’s vibrant history and is well worth a visit.
If you enjoy golfing, check out the Catalina Island Golf Course, nestled in a canyon with breathtaking views. This nine-hole, par-32 course costs $40 for nine holes and $60 for 18 if you're up for playing twice. Carts and clubs are available for rent.
Unofficial Song of Catalina Island
The lively tune “26 Miles (Santa Catalina)” gained popularity through The Four Preps in the late 1950s. I highly recommend giving it a listen before your trip and again while on the ferry.
Local Recommendation
The Avalon Graveyard offers a serene retreat at the edge of town. During our visit around Veterans Day, we noticed numerous tiny U.S. flags displayed among the headstones and greenery. “I used to be in charge of the public works department, and I was responsible for the graveyard,” Lopez shared with me. “I buried many people there; my Mom and Dad are also resting here. It’s a hidden spot that many don’t know about.”